By Peter Lyons Hall
Making the perfect pie is all about getting the ingredients in perfect alignment: the fruit, the filling, and the crust. And with the fruit at its peak this summer, making (or finding) your favorite pie can be a bit tricky – juicy, but not soggy, with a flaky crust that stays crisp – according to Shannon’s Eyes on the Pies, one of the regular purveyors of both sweet and savory pies at the weekly market.
”I’m making apple, blueberry, peach, cherry, pecan, and Key Lime Pie right now,” replied Shannon Cheevers, the pie whisperer of Orange County, New York. “There are several important steps that I take, however, in creating our pies,” she added. For example, peach pies require extra effort because the fruit is so juicy, and if you’re not careful, the extra juice can produce a soggy pie which is not very appealing to pie aficionados. Here are some tips from a variety of professional pastry chefs:
- Prepare the Fruit: Be careful to select firm but ripe peaches. Select fruit that smells fragrant and gives in slightly to the touch. And blanching the fruit in boiling water (for about 30–45 seconds), and then immersing the fruit into icy cold water will cause the skins to slip right off. Then remember to slice the fruit in even slices so that they cook evenly.
- Control the Juice: Begin by tossing the peach slices with sugar but then let sit for 20–30 minutes to draw out excess liquid, then drain the fruit. Adding cornstarch (or tapioca starch) or flour will minimize the contents from running away. And then adding some lemon juice or peach infused balsamic vinegar can offset some of the natural sweetness while enhancing the mixture with the right flavor.
- Create the Crust: While Shannon says that SHE is the secret ingredient when it comes to creating the perfect crust, start by chilling everything (cold butter, cold water, and chilled dough – this will keep the crust flaky). Then bake the crust for about 10 minutes before you add any ingredients, since this will discourage a soggy bottom to form. You can brush the top of the crust with an egg plus a tablespoon of cream for both color and a little shine.
- Take it Up a Notch: Adding the right spice notes: cinnamon, nutmeg, or ginger can enrich the flavor of the pie without ruining the spotlight for the fruit. And introducing a bit of herbs (fresh thyme or basil – and yes, FRESH) can yield a nice gourmet touch.
- Bake It and Cool It: One of the tricks is to bake on the bottom rack, ensuring that the bottom will brown BEFORE the top crust browns. Be mindful of the length of baking – the pie should bubble enough in the center (for several minutes) in order to activate the thickener. (Remember we don’t want the crust to become soggy). And after you remove it from the oven, be patient and allow it to cool for a couple of hours so that the filling sets. Otherwise, if you are too eager and begin slicing into it, it will cause runny slices.
Shannon’s Pies, Locust Grove fruit, and other delicacies are a staple at the Lakeside Farmers Market each Saturday from 9AM-1PM. Besides the incredible range of produce from J&A Farms, and freshly made fruit pies, apple rose tarts, pecan pies, key lime pies, and savory pies available from Shannon, look for baked goods from Trattoria Italiana, sour dough breads from Flower and Dough, and delicious Greek yogurt, spicy cider, gourmet cheeses, ready-to-eat foods and chilled soups, artisan soaps and fragrances. And don’t forget that several organizations (Lions Club, Cornell Master Gardeners, NASA Ambassadors) are also present each Saturday. To learn more, click on GWLNY.org.
Photo credits: Peter Lyons Hall
